Anderson Valley
In recent years, cool-climate wine regions have been in the spotlight due to global warming. Even sun-soaked California isn’t exempt from this trend. While regions like Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County and West Sonoma Coast or Carneros in Sonoma County are well-known for their cool Pacific-influenced climates, it was Mendocino County that recently captured my attention.
Located at the northernmost end of California’s North Coast, Mendocino County is often cited as one of the coolest winegrowing regions in the state. Within this area lies Anderson Valley AVA (highlighted in lavender on the map), a subregion nestled along winding hills closer to the coast. Anderson Valley is home to 62 wineries and 90 vineyards, and its cool climate makes it particularly well-suited for Pinot Noir.
The dominance of Pinot Noir here is no coincidence. In 1982, it accounted for only 8% of plantings, but by 2018, it soared to 69% as the region gained recognition as a top-tier Pinot Noir producer. So passionate is the region about the grape that it even hosts an annual Pinot Noir Festival—this year taking place over three days from May 16th. Aside from Pinot, Chardonnay follows with 21% of plantings, and Alsatian varieties such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, as well as Merlot, also thrive here. Anderson Valley’s varietal makeup clearly distinguishes it from other AVAs in California.
The wines that best represent Anderson Valley are its premium Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, and sparkling wines—and those are exactly what first drew me to this region. Let’s take a closer look at two wines that showcase Anderson Valley’s unique character: a still Pinot Noir and a sparkling wine.
Maggy Hawk Jolie Pinot Noir 2020
Maggy Hawk is a winery that beautifully captures the cool-climate essence of Anderson Valley. Its vineyards lie nestled among Northern California’s native redwood forests, a setting that brings a certain purity and quiet elegance to their wines. The winery is located in the northern half of Anderson Valley, an area locals call The Deep End—so named because of the deep, heavy fog that rolls in from the Mendocino coast, blanketing the hillsides.
Their Maggy Hawk Jolie Pinot Noir is a wine of remarkable complexity and restraint. Bright red fruit aromas—ripe cherry, raspberry, and plum—intertwine with refreshing notes of pine, mint, and forest floor, evoking the sensation of a woodland stroll. A touch of age brings in nuanced hints of mushrooms and autumn leaves. The wine boasts high acidity and a medium-plus body, offering excellent balance. The tannins are textured and pleasantly firm. When tasted slowly, the wine reveals itself in layers, each one unfolding in turn. There’s no overripe fruit here; instead, a cool, composed elegance permeates the wine. It doesn’t scream for attention like an extroverted “E” Pinot Noir—instead, it’s an introverted “I” wine, drawing you in gradually, and all the more alluring for it. It’s a compelling example of the kind of premium Pinot Noir that Anderson Valley is capable of producing.
Roederer Estate Quartet Brut NV
As the name suggests, Roederer Estate has ties to the renowned Champagne house Louis Roederer. This winery was established by Roederer in Anderson Valley in 1982, and has since been producing benchmark California sparkling wines using the traditional method (Méthode Traditionnelle). Unusually for California, Roederer Estate uses only estate-grown grapes—akin to the RM (Récoltant-Manipulant) designation in Champagne.
Roederer Estate’s sparkling wines are a marriage of French winemaking tradition and the distinctive terroir of Anderson Valley. In blind tastings, even sommeliers have mistaken them for Champagne—proof of just how refined they are. I’ve tasted their entry-level Quartet Brut, and it’s clear this isn’t your typical Californian bubbly. It’s composed of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, with 10–15% reserve wine blended in. The dosage is set at 10g/L, offering balance and structure, while judicious oak use adds a pleasant nuttiness.
The Quartet Brut is the most accessible in the Roederer Estate lineup, both in terms of price and availability. That said, word has it their top cuvée, L’Ermitage, is truly outstanding. I haven’t had the chance to try L’Ermitage yet, but I’ve revisited Quartet Brut several times, and even cellared a few bottles to explore how it ages. In many ways, Roederer Estate sets the standard for high-quality Californian sparkling wine—and Anderson Valley is the stage upon which that standard is set.
