Vivier by Stephan Vivier, the “Lazy Winemaker”
There’s a winemaker who describes himself as a “lazy winemaker.” His name is Stephan Vivier, and he runs his winery Vivier in California. Born and raised in Burgundy, Stephan is a true product of the region—he once worked as the winemaker for none other than Hyde de Villaine, the joint project between Aubert de Villaine (of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti fame) and Larry Hyde, one of Napa Valley’s most respected grape growers. At Hyde de Villaine, Stephan produced wines often referred to as the “Montrachets of Napa,” blending the finesse of Burgundy with the sunshine of California. He credits both Aubert and Larry as being key influences in shaping his winemaking approach.
In 2009, Stephan launched Vivier Wines with the support of his wife, Dana Sexton, then CFO of the renowned winery Far Niente. Initially focused on Pinot Noir, Vivier expanded into Chardonnay about a decade later. Although Stephan eventually stepped away from his role at Hyde de Villaine, he remains on good terms with the team—his current Chardonnay is made with grapes from Hyde Vineyard, a testament to those lasting relationships.
The vineyards he sources from are mostly located near San Pablo Bay, just south of San Francisco. This cool-climate region is heavily influenced by ocean breezes and fog, allowing for slow ripening and producing grapes that retain both freshness and elegance.
Stephan’s self-proclaimed “lazy” winemaking philosophy is rooted in his early experiences. Growing up in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune in Burgundy, he began working in vineyards and cellars from a young age. It was there he learned, from an older neighbor and winemaker, the principles of non-interventionist winemaking—a philosophy grounded in patience, minimal interference, and letting the grapes speak for themselves.
I had the chance to taste Vivier wines in person at the California Wine Alive Tasting 2025, held on Thursday, February 27. Despite the sheer number of excellent Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays being poured at the Hidden Cellar booth that day, Vivier stood out. These were elegant, pure wines that truly expressed the fruit without any unnecessary adornment. As part of the event’s organizing team, I didn’t have much time to taste everything leisurely, but I made a point to stop by Vivier’s table—I’d previously introduced the winery in an article for WINEIN., and was determined to try the wines myself. I wasn’t disappointed—they were genuinely outstanding.
One important note: production is extremely limited. Only 70 to 80 bottles of each wine are imported into Korea. If you’re a fan of Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, Vivier is absolutely worth seeking out.
